Monday, May 30, 2011

Kenya: Mombasa Raha

Got back this morning at 6:15 am to Ngong from my weekend on the coast. Went to Manaseh afterwords. LONG weekend. Officially been to the Southern Hemisphere now though!

Highlights
First bus ride: 7 hours, overnight. Bumpy, COLD, unbearable. Three to a two seat. Children grabbing hair. NO SLEEP. HELL ON WHEELS.

Enjoying Mombasa. Beautiful city/beach. Walked down to the beach (a long hike) saw MONKEYS just chillin', also chameleons and lotsa crabs. Fucking fantastic.

Matatu into town. (Gideon's friend lived in a suburb outside near the beach). Slept a little.

Fort Jesus. I deemed it the Tower of London of Africa. It was this old, odd Portuguese place, please satisfy your curiosity on google until you get a look at my pictures. It was wild.

Delicious fruit salad. Mm...

Dinner at a fish place, I ate a WHOLE FISH. I mean, it was served with the head on and all, and let me tell you, it was one of the most delicious meals I've ever had. It was served with a side of curry, too, which was also extremely delicious. I am hungry, could you tell?

Going out to a bar on the beach to watch the Man U vs. Barcelona game. Awesome music, good game even though I don't like soccer. Gideon & his friends were entertaining.

It should be noted that prostitution here is legal as long as the two parties are both consenting adults above the age of 18. I guess the oddest thing I've seen here is the "Beach Boy" phenomenon, which are basically these really attractive men who pray on sex tourists or lonely women. I guess sometimes they don't even get laid, but just get dinner and a night out on the town. Strange to hear about, stranger to see, especially because I expected older women, ugly women, but many of the girls were young, probably about my age and they were hiring these beach boys! My philosophy about it: why pay when you could probably get it for free? Also, they all have STDs and many have HIV and it's a huge public health disaster. Of course, I also bore witness to the classic prostitute, beautiful, young, probably very diseased. Dance like nothing I've ever seen (remind me again, why doesn't my butt shake so wonderfully like that?) I saw this very old, corpulent, smelly Mzungu all over this girl who appeared around my age. I kept looking at them and feeling bad that that was her client, and he could do (and did) whatever he wanted with her. He must've felt ontop of the world. I wonder if she is there by choice (which I guess many of them are, as they make bank here, which I am coming to find increasingly is rare and hard to do) or if she was forced into it because of unfortunate circumstances, perhaps a child or a family or debts or something. That guy was really nasty though, poor girl.

Sweatiest sleep ever. The heat on the coast is crazy, it envelopes you and then seals you in until you sweat half your body weight off. It was uncomfortable.

SWIMMING IN THE INDIAN OCEAN! I just laughed for like ten minutes as I dove into and out of the waves. The water was warm and was a welcomed relief from the unbearable heat of the morning. Beautiful beach too, no whities, just locals. Even though I went swimming alone (African people, from what I've seen, in general, can't swim) I had a great time!

Raw coconut, cracked on the beach for just me! It was delish.

Bus ride home: more bearable, made less so by lack of ipod (died) and the incredible cold that infiltrated the bus as we neared Nairobi, which is at a considerably higher altitude over the coast. Also, my ears popped. Didn't realize I was up so high.

Today at Manaseh was great too. Good day. Drew the Solar System. I have the drawings to show everyone when I get home, I might even upload them on this blog because I love them so much.

Lowlights

Before we left Nairobi, I saw two men, thieves presumably covered in human feces and bloody. Beaten by cops. Handcuffed. May have been more disturbing, scary experiences of my life. Never see that in the States.

Mosquito bites, I think I've counted up over 50 by this point. Watch as I contract Malaria, regardless of the pills I've been taking.

Almost lost my debit card. Didn't though!

Sweat. Inescapable sweat.
_____

That all being said, I'm happy the weekend went off so well. I was pretty apprehensive about going with only one person (male) and meeting only a couple friends there. He was vouched for by Millicent and her daughter, Carol, though, and he knew them from church, leading me to believe that he probably was a decent guy, but one can never be too sure. I think I liked that situation in the end better though, as it was less overwhelming, less of a struggle to socialize because I've learned the hard way that in large groups people tend to just slip into swahili, and I end up getting lost. I was also very lucky, I know, that Gideon was not a creep and the whole situation remained platonic. It was great, but definitely risky. I regret nothing!
(Ok, maybe I regret not putting enough sunscreen on, this sunburn hurts. Only where I missed though! only on one shoulder!)

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Kenya: A routine?

It's gotten normal. It's finely happened. When I first got here, I thought, this will soon be normal, I will soon take for granted all the crazy stuff that is Kenya, and it has happened. I now scoff at a whopping KSh 540 for a large dinner for three at nice restaurant (~USD 6.15), swat away moths as if they were just air, walk peacefully among the cattle and can watch the clouds gracefully without having my head glued to the uneven dirt roads.
I've started this routine this past week, I get up, go to Manaseh, come home, read, eat (around fucking NINE o'clock at night, which in the swahili language, is THREE o'clock at night, which is not only very confusing but also very late.) and sleep. Get up, repeat. Notice lack of shower. That is not a typo. That is life here: showerless, flush-less and very sunny. I have found very creative ways to wear my hair of late, out of my face, not looking like yarn from grease. I have also become accustomed to only drinking about .5 Liters of water a day (a VERY minimal amount). I have gotten used to the frequent power outtages (two today so far) and the lack of internet until the afternoon. The lack of phone. The craziness.
I'm feeling better about being a Mzungu. This new volunteer, his name is David and he's from around here, says that people just don't know how or where to start. They want to talk to me, but they don't know how. And I understand that, I do, but when Steve, this creep who has now discovered how I walk to and from Manaseh, (no, I can't vary the route, I don't know the way) tries to tell me that I'm taking him to my country, I have to shudder. It's creepy, okay?!
Tomorrow I'm heading to the coast and also Nairobi to see Georgia again, and I'm psyched. I really, really need the beach because my head hasn't been underwater in two weeks and I'm aching for beach. And, on another upside, hopefully my 'wetsuit' tan will disappear. (I have to dress in pretty long sleeves and I usually wear leggings, which has led to an unsightly shade of white paste surrounding the entire middle of my body).

It's also been nice to have David at Manaseh because it opens up new possibilities of teaching the kids simple science and more about America, as he can easily-ish switch between Swahili and English. Today I taught them about the water cycle, which was so kick ass and enjoyable. They were so captivated by the Magic School Bus. I can hardly wait to tell Georgia and Louise. But, on the other hand, the Hokey Pokey failed miserably as they can't understand any of the words and can't really distinguish that "Hokey Pokey" is a funny made up sound, and not just part of our vernacular.

So, until Sunday or Monday and my return, I leave you.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Kenya: Entering Week Three

Many people here thought the world would end on Saturday at 6 pm. We are still here (no one saw that one coming). PRAISE JESUS. Continuing.

What I had first mistaken as novelty and noting difference, I now believe is a form of hard and fast racism. Now that I am alone, traveling as one Mzungu and not two or three, I am scared. I am really fucking scared. And I have never felt more alone in my life.

People shout on the streets, 'Mzungu, mzungu!' I didn't let it get to me, I didn't. But now it's just like their shouting, "go home! you don't belong here. get out!" Kenyans are of this mindset: white skin=money. And, yes, I guess it is true. I have a lot more fucking money than almost every other person I see on the streets, but put me here in Kenya, convert the actual ratio of money I live on to Kenyan schillings and see how rich I am. See how many schillings I have to spend on just rent for one month in my 'shitty' apartment back home. I don't have money to throw around here, but yes, yes I DO have the ability to pull out 10,000 shillings at a time. So WHAT?! It means NOTHING. I don't like being accosted, ripped off and touched. My fine hair is not a signal that it's okay to touch it. My tanned skin is not a signal that it's okay to take my arm. My leather wallet is not a sign I have money.

I was ripped off buying fabric. I paid 300 KSh, which I thought was a reasonable price and a trustworthy shop. Turns out that should only have cost me 150 KSh. And then someone had the nerve to attempt to sell me the same size and quality of fabric at a market yesterday for 600 KSh.

It's not just the shopping. Yesterday I went into Nairobi and I saw reverse ghettos. White people seclude themselves in these huge, hulking, luxurious apartment complexes. White people being ex-Pats, the people who are descendants of the British who colonized here who do almost always have more money than all the others. The racial divide here is so stark it's hard to not notice. Honestly, I can't blame them. People cut in front of me in line, assume that I'll take them back to where ever I'm from, harass me...I guess I'd separate myself too if I could.

And the religion. I think I am literally the only person within 200 km who doesn't accept Jehovah as my Lord and Savior and understands that sinners may not burn in hell. It's intolerable. I will NOT start going to church when I get home, okay?!

The worst I suppose is the huge language divide. I know their talking about me because I catch the word "mzungu" in with swahili jibberish and I catch sneers in my general direction. Of course I can't communicate in Swahili, okay? I TRY though. I really do. I'm TRYING not to stick out so sorely, but I can't live in blackface for three more weeks. I just don't know what to do; I feel lost. I'm so alone here, especially in this village because no tourists live here and no ex-Pats live here either.

My phone, I have discovered is incredibly expensive to use. I can't talk to my friends or my family on the phone, and I can only get to this stupid internet room deemed 'cafe' for a couple hours in the afternoon before the sun sets and I am in true and present danger. This only adds to my sinking deepening feeling of loneliness.


In other news, I taught the kids to say "What's up?" today. It went over quite well even if they only half knew what it meant. I really like those kids but sometimes they gather around me like I have all the answers and know what to do and everything in the world. I don't. I really don't. I've started preparing lessons in the evenings, and it went pretty well today. The teacher, who I finally found out was 21 years old, was super cooperative and the lesson went well. I taught them a simple conversation a la:

Hey, what's your name?
My name is Milkah, what's yours? ['yours' is always pronounced wrong, without fail]
I am Rebecca. How old are you?
I'm 9 years old. And you?
I'm 20 years old.
Where are you from?
I'm from Kenya. And you?
I'm from The United States.
How many siblings do you have?
I have 2 sisters and 1 brother.

Some of the older kids can get it, but the ones who only know Maa (Masai native tongue) can barely form the words. And even the older kids need a script. I am now absolutely positive that they absorbed not even 30% of what the Canadians taught them. Maybe two of the kids could explain in Swahili some of what we went over last week. I'm trying, I'm doing my best. But my best is just not good enough.

And still I wake up thinking, HOLY FUCK I'm in KENYA. (!!) Probably the best experience I'll ever have.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Kenya: The Ngong Hills

Today was intense. It began early with a breakfast of FOUR whole pieces of white bread, jam, butter and bananas. We headed out only an hour late for the Ngong Hills, which is this series of 'hills' (I'd like to think they're more like mountains...). Accompanied by our new friend Gideon, a friend of Millicent's daughter from church, we started out up some STEEP hills just to get to the park. We hiked from 9 am until 5 pm and I barely survived, but the vistas were amazing and totally worth it once we got up onto the hills. We made it to 'hill' 5 of 7, but if you ask me, 12 km-ish was a pretty decent hike. We even saw Mount Kilimanjaro in the waaay distance as well as all the mountains, hills, Masaai lands and rivers surrounding this entire area where I'm staying. Off in the distance you could see the beginnings of the Great Rift Valley and I could've sworn I saw a giraffe or two ;)

No, probably no giraffes, but we were lucky enough to catch a couple monkeys in some trees, plenty of beautiful flowers, grazing lifestock and several wild dogs. It was an incredible hike!!

And now to pass out and not wake up until next week.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Kenya: Baboons and Elephants and Rhinos, oh my!

Yesterday we (Louise, Georgia and myself) went to the elephant orphanage right here outside of town. It was AMAZING as I got to pet several real, live, baby elephants, a rhino and see a ton of baboons. I also saw some other wildlife like dung beetles and the like. One of the best experiences of my life. Elephants feel like hulking, wrinkly, bristly, warm rocks.

Teaching the kids is going well. It's just a huge communication barrier type thing, but reading to them really helps them I think. They just need attention, of which I can only try to begin to scratch the surface of giving them. I'm so exhausted right now I can't really describe it in more detail, but I did teach them algebra today.


Time for me to go. Hope to update again next week, heading to Nairobi for a last hurrah with my Canadian friends before they leave.

:)

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Kenya: A Tuesday

So. I've been on this adventure for more than a week now, and it's just flying by in some ways, and in others I'm really looking forward to getting through alive. So, we'll start with today. We all woke up, I conquered the toilet once again and headed out. We taught math with jump ropes again, today counting by threes. They did really great after a while, but we accept that it was mostly reiteration. We went into the school house after that and I drew up the first number line they have ever seen. I taught them simple subtraction with counting leaps and it worked better than I would've hoped. After we worked with math more, we started doing English skills, which they really, really struggle with. It's hard to teach them to do more than just copy and regurgitate. It's been incredibly helpful to have Georgia and her mom here, I'm a little concerned about when they leave. I'm hoping I'll be able to continue the reading and math regimen we've quasi set up for them. In the afternoon, we talked about the human body and then followed it up with a presentation from the Canadians about Canada. I think they understood about 40% of the presentation, hopefully.

Otherwise, it's been really tiring to try to make everything educational. It's hard to teach kids who don't know a lick of English, or even a lick of Swahili. Most of them speak tribal languages and many we think may have learning disabilities. It's sad to see flies landing on faces and kids not having the know how to swat them away. They don't have love there. They don't have adults who cuddle them and make them feel loved. They don't have teachers who invest themselves in their achievement, their ability to learn, their lives. It's so incredibly sad, but I've done what I can. I know all their names now, pretty much. Among the memorable ones, or my favorites, are Irene, who is an 11 year old girl who always loves playing with my hair. She's great. There's also Paul, who I think is a favorite of the Canadians. He's funky and has a really unique personality. I've also taken this interest in this kid named Samuel, he's so smart but he's so quiet and small that I don't think he really has a chance to show it off.

So, other than the school, I've been doing some interesting things around Ngong. I met some nurses from the Karen Hospital (in Karen, a city named after the author of Out of Africa, Karen Blixon) who said I would be welcome to come and tour the hospital. I am looking forward to that, as I originally signed on to work in a health care setting. Tomorrow-ish, we're going to go check out the Giraffes so I'll get my first taste of real African wildlife. I mean, I saw a chameleon today, at which I gawked, "Is that real?!" It was.

Millicent is great, she's been a great hostess even considering the crazy amount of religiousness that goes down under her roof and the broken toilet. Germicide has become my best friend here, no one even thinks of soap and few people rinse their hands with water after using the restroom. There are pit toilets dug near the trash piles which are randomly littered (puns, puns, puns, I know) around town. But, honestly, now that I've been here for a while I begin to look past all the really pungent things and see the vibrant life that calls this part of Africa their home. There are animals of all sorts, goats, roosters, sheep, dogs, and cats roaming around town. And the people are so...incredible. They all look strong and proud, and are so hearty. Life is bustling. There are so many people always, everywhere, and they have this uniquely African look. It's like the fashion is from 10 seasons ago, but somehow people look put together, and all so happy. Always happy and pleased and thankful for what they 'have been given.' Very religious though, when we went to church, I was fairly sure I was probably going to hell. Scary stuff. We also pray at least three times a day, which makes me uncomfortable when they have me do it still. I'll get better and I'll never giggle-hiccup again. I promise.

So, it's time for me to go, know that if I haven't answered an email or so it's not because I don't love you, but rather because I don't have unlimited time online.

Miss you all and I'll be in touch!

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Kenya: The Weekend.

We went to church today. I'll talk more about it later, but suffice to say religion here is beyond intense. Georgia's mom got in last night, and so now we're touring around Ngong, haven't really seen it yet, so it should be interesting. I always feel like I'm on some crazy adventure when I'm walking around here, but it's getting to be routine at this point. I pulled out American money out of my bag today and thought, "WHOA! That's crazy money."

More later.

Thursday, May 12, 2011

Kenya day four

I'll probably have access to internet every day/maybe every few days because there's a local cyber cafe here that costs like one cent a minute. Everything here is so cheap, it's hard to believe. For instance, I had to get a pair of shoes because I didn't want to ruin my shoes in the incredible mud there is so I got one off a street vendor for like $3. Yes, you read right. They're pretty hip too, you probably can't wait to see them I know. (disclaimer: they may have bright pink hearts on them and sparkly laces).

So. I guess I'll tell you what's been up. My goat was gotten, basically. 'Elghana' seems to be somewhat of a scam! (no one saw that coming, right?) Anyway, it worked out on the better side of scams, as now I'm working at an orphanage teaching really unfortunate abandoned kids how to do math (ineffectively, so far, but I'm working on it. If you have suggestions...) I'm in a small town outside of Nairobi called Ngong (pronounced 'gong' pretty much). There is mud everywhere. There are also an fanciful assortment of goats, cows, roosters, asses and wild dogs. I am sleeping at a woman named Millicent's house who can be easily described as extremely Christian, jolly and warm. She doesn't have too much running water, so it's basin showers for me, but luckily she has enough to supply a toilet. A toilet in a room with no light and no great flushing mechanism. Alas, I count my blessings. I was pleased to discover that there is another volunteer staying with her now too; her name is Georgia and she comes from Toronto. We get along pretty well, but she's leaving next week at which time I will be all alone in Africa. The town over is called "Karen" after the author of the book "Nowhere in Africa" which takes place in the Ngong hills, which I can see right as I walk out of this cafe.
I'm learning simple Swahili, which seems to be more necessary than I first had thought. I have "Asante" "Jeenah lako nani? Jeenah langoo ni Becca" and "Lala Salaama" but I'm working on it. :)

African food is kind of hit or miss so far. A LOT of cilantro, which is kind of a drawback, but really delicious cabbage. Tea is served with milk, so I've spent a good portion of my time here doubled over in pain from lactose intolerance. I forgot the lactaid. Oops.

What else? Nairobi looks completely different than I expected. It's...well, it's complicated and this keyboard hurts to type on, so I'm just going to suffice to say that it's dirty, crowded and the fashion is almost depressing (in not a mean way, just in a bad way). The people at the office there were nice enough, told me I wouldn't be working at a hospital, but that I could donate a largess to this orphanage. I didn't really have a choice, so I'm hoping to walk away from this experience with my wallet at least fat enough to buy books for summer classes.

As I think back to the beginning of this all, (this whole story has been pretty reverse chronological) it took two whole days to get here because my flight was delayed in Chicago for quite some time then in Amsterdam for some more time, so I ended up getting to spend a lovely day exploring Amsterdam alone. One of my favorite days, by far. I never thought of Amsterdam as a beautiful place, but seriously, there is something so interesting and unique about it. I absolutely loved it.

So until I get a chance to post again, Kwa heri!!

Sunday, May 8, 2011

the day before i go

So busy. So many things to think about, so many things going through my head. Unfortunately, I am forced to think about my impending exam tomorrow in a subject which I love, but it's just so hard to think about right now. (Atrial Nauretic Peptide increases sodium secretion, thus, decreases Renin secretion, no?) I have yet to pack, I have to write a bunch of information down to compensate for lack of internet and to put the cherry on top today is Mother's day, and I don't have the type of mother to just forget about it. She's coming to 'help me pack.' I'm putting a limit on how long we spend together today because I really do have a bunch of stuff to do.

Finals otherwise went alright, I have an essay to edit for German, but otherwise, I'm pretty much through. I think my classes went alright, with any luck I guessed right on some of the questions I was unsure about on my human growth and development exam and pulled off higher than an 80%.

ANYWAY. I'm going to Africa tomorrow. I need a phone battery for an LG VU. Fuck. I forgot about that.

I've been watching a lot of Scrubs to compensate for the lack of studying and working. That's not true, actually, I've worked like 20 hours at Woodman's this week. Still, it feels as though I've been unproductive and extremely inactive. Jason Bateman guest starred briefly on this episode that's on right now. Never would've guessed, but I do love ostriches. (I mean, the comedy associated with them, not the birds themselves).

In sum, I guess I'm a lot less worried about going to Africa than I was two weeks ago. I've really calmed down about contracting weird diseases and just know that if I'm safe, I'll be okay. Or, I'll hopefully be okay. I have a cell phone number which I will give out, my dad did a half assed job of getting it together so I have no information as to how much it will cost to call the US if I need to. Ah, well. I'm tired now, so I should go back downtown and get my study on. I really need to study.

Maybe I'll get time to update my blog in Kenya, if not, I promise an overview upon my return.

Au revoir.